Clock Mainspring Clamps 4PC

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Clock Mainspring Clamps

Set of 4 mainspring Clock Tools clamps to keep a mainspring in the wound position and keep them under control. Best to get two of these sets for paired sized mainsprings. Often the clock will have two mainsprings of the same size, therefore two sets will give a matching set of each size. These are best used with the clock mainspring let down tool. Let down and wind the spring up or down to fit this over the spring within the movement. This way the mainspring is clamped in the coiled position safely and the movement can be disassembled without a mess or danger.

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Clock Hand Puller Tool

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Hand Puller

The perfect tool to remove stubborn hands and gears from a mechanical clock movement. The two jaws grab onto both sides of the hand, or gear, so it can be pulled straight off. This clock hand puller tool has a 7mm jaw opening. The knurled center screw turns and pushes against the post as the jaws brings the part forward. Small and useful for things like Anniversary clock hands and mechanical clock gathering pallets. Also useful for removing small gears. This puller is 7/8 inch wide by about 1 1/2 inches tall.

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Mechanical Clock Bubble Level

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Bubble Level

A small bubble level to help put a mechanical clock into beat or just level it for an even tick tock. If the clock is showing that it is level, but the tick and the tock are not even, please read 'how to put a clock in beat' in the help sections. No clock will run if it is not in beat. However, this does not have anything to do with the clock being level. Although that is always optimal when putting the clock in beat. That way the next person to move it from here to there will still have it in beat providing that they also move it to another level place.

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Vision-Visor Magnification Headband

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This quality, and handy tool is made in the USA and has the capability to be worn over eyeglasses. This is a flip top Vision-Visor Magnification Headband that fits over the head. Moreover, this is the most convenient magnification for inspecting important components of the clock movement and parts. It has a distortion free acrylic lens with a coating for superior abrasion resistance. The coating on the lens is also for an increase in light transmission for a brighter image. The band has padding for comfort which is adjustable by a ratchet function. Also, this product is part of the clock cleaning kits that we offer.

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Clock Movement Assembly Posts

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Clock Movement Assembly Posts

These assembly posts keeps the movement plate in a flat, workable platform to use during reassembly. The movement will not sit on the table well because of the posts and things that stick out of the plates. So these posts are the best to clamp to the movement plate and keep it in the air nice and flat. This way all the wheels can be set in there without leaning this way or that because the movement plate would be off level with out these. Basically without these posts you may just lose your mind trying to reassemble a clock movement, especially when learning. Set of 4 posts 2 3/4' long have a screw top that will clamp it to the movement plate. Includes a hanging bracket to hang the movement for testing on the wall.

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Clock Let Down Tools Set of 4

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Clock Let Down Tools

The let down tools set comes with a handle and 3 chucks and fits just about every winder arbor size. Put the chuck into the handle and then release the mainspring in a slow controlled manner with the hand grip. This is done by putting the tool onto the key post arbor and then gently releasing the click. While doing this the fist is around the handle and the power can be let down with gentle care. Of course the opposite of this is to try to do this with the key and this usually ends bad for the persons hand and the clock movement.

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Clock Pivot Reaching Tool

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Clock Pivot Reaching Tool

This tool is useful when reassembling the clock movement. It is of course a challenge to get the pivots to go into the holes in the outer clock plates. A pivot is the skinny end of a wheel arbor and is to go into the pivot holes in the outer brass plates.

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Clock Mainspring Let-Down Tool Set of 2

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Let Down Tool

Use this clock mainspring let-down tool to release the power in a wound up mainspring. The key goes into the chuck and the chuck goes into the handle. This is so the power can be let out of the mainspring. It does the same job as the 4 piece set that we also sell. However, this one fits over the existing clock key instead. If a spring driven clock was taken apart without the power being taken out of the mainsprings, bad things may happen. The movement could sustain damage, or it can severely hurt the hands or eyes. So for this reasons always release the mainsprings power.

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Clock Loop-End Mainspring Winder Tool

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Clock Loop-End Mainspring Winder

Winder for loop end mainsprings, to be used with the mainspring clamps. This is to take a unwound loop end mainspring and wind it up to get a mainspring clamp onto it. When the C clamp is on, it is much easier to manage in the clock movement assembly process. There is not really a totally safe way to use this tool, it can be both dangerous and tricky. The mainspring can pack a punch so please take precautions to protect the body just in case it lets go.

Intended Use

Ideally one would use the great wheel in through the hole in the device, clamp it down in a way to protect the teeth of the wheel. Put the mainspring on it with the loop end of the mainspring over the arbor of this device. Use a mainspring key to wind the mainspring up on the great wheel that is clamped. When the mainspring is small and coiled enough put the mainspring clamp over it and release the power some so it is safely in the clamp. Now the mainspring is wound and easier to put into the disassembled movement to reassemble it again.

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Large Clock Tweezers Assortment

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Large Clock Tweezer Assortment

Large Clock Tweezers Assortment. Very useful set for reassembling movements and get the pivots back in there pivot holes. Sizes range from 5 inch to 7 inch long. Assorted tips and shapes on these very long tweezers set.

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Long Screw-Drivers Cuckoo-Clock Repair set of 6

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Post WW2 German cuckoo clock repair parts for the professional or hobbyist. Information on how to install these parts onto a cuckoo clock. - Clockworks
Cuckoo PartsCuckoo parts descriptionIf it will not cuckooInstalling the cuckoo handsCuckoo Strike Quantity IssuesCuckoo Door Stuck OpenReplacing Bellow Tops

Please view these information tabs to help with determining the proper parts for your clock.

Cuckoo repair parts

The most common Cuckoo repair parts sold is the bellow tops and the hands. The bellow tubes are usually good to reuse on the clock, just the bellow tops have cloth that rip over time and therefore the clock will not cuckoo the time out.

Repairing cuckoo bellows

If the cloth is ripped the entire cuckoo bellows do not need to be replaced. The bellow tops only can be used. If just replacing the bellow tops it makes things easier to get the correct size for the clock. To get the proper bellow tops measure the length and width of the top only. Snap off the old tops off of the bellow tubes and clean the surface with a knife, then epoxy the new tops on the same way. Then transfer the cuckoo lift rings from the old tops to the new ones and its done.

Cuckoo Clock Repair

Cuckoo Clock Repair

The help section can help with many of the most common issues the clock may have. We also have the cuckoo clock movements for post 1950 German made units. This is about 80 percent of the cuckoos out in the world so chances are we have the movement needed.

If the movement is worn out and is post 1950 its just as well to get the new one instead of restoring the old one. The process of the movement restoration is time consuming and therefore expensive. When the new movement is 100-200 dollars and will last alot longer than the best restoration.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

New cuckoo clock movement not striking

When the new cuckoo clock movement will not go into striking mode for the hours. The bird will not come out and the clock will not indicate what time it is with the cuckoo call. Here are some guidelines on what to check in this situation.

See if the cuckoo door is latched shut

There is a wire above the cuckoo door that locks it into the closed position. This is for either shipping the clock and also for chime shut off. It is a small wire that stops the door and just gets turned to either in the way or out of the way of the door. Be sure it is out of the way so the door can open and it can cuckoo.

Check the silence lever

There may be a silence lever if the cuckoo movement has one. This would be located on the side of the cuckoo clock movement and stick outside of the clock case. Push it down for cuckoo on and up for cuckoo shut off usually. Just move it to the opposite direction and see if the clock will strike out the cuckoo calls. If the movement has a silence switch that does not stick outside of the case it may still be on the movement itself. Just look at the back of the clock with the back panel off and may see the silence switch. See a lever on the right as facing the back of the movement on the top side. Not all cuckoos have this feature as the manufacturer, silence the cuckoo just by locking the bird door.

Clock chain resistance

Be sure nothing is in the way of the chain that drives the striking side of the cuckoo clock. One weight controls the time and the other the strike. If the chain is rubbing anything like the hole in the bottom of the cuckoo case it will be just like not having enough weight to make it run. The chain that holds the weight should be straight from the ratchet wheel and down without rubbing anything. Also the side of the chain that there is no weight attached to cant be caught up on anything also. This is the side that pull to raise the weight on the other side of the chain loop.

Bellow lift wires in the way

On a new cuckoo clock movement install it is required to bend the lift wires so they do not get caught up on each other. During the travel up to lift the bellows they could be hitting each other and creating resistance. These just get bent this way or that way so they can go up and down with the bellow tops. If the bellow tops is broken or ripped it can cause this to happen also.

Bird arm position

The arm that the bird rests on could be bent in a way that it is trying to go forward too much. Therefore it hits the front of the clock case instead of in a position where it just opens the door. The intent is for it to open the cuckoo door only and not hit the front of the clock case. It will only cuckoo if the bird arm is able to be all the way forward with no resistance.

Cuckoo door opening wire

If this wire is too long it will try to open the bird door too much. With the bird door open too much it will not be able to start the cuckoo strike. The solution is to make the door wire shorter or put a bend in it. Putting a bend in this wire so its sort of a hump instead of straight will be the same thing as making it shorter.

Cuckoo Clock Not Striking Conclusion

If the cuckoo will not go into striking mode is caused by resistance. There is only like 4 or 5 gears that have to spin around to make the clock cuckoo. If there is any resistance for this to happen it will not function. These 4 -5 gears need to spin to have the bellows lift and open the cuckoo door at the same time. There is much action that is dictated by these few gears spinning, any resistance in any part will stop it from working.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Installing cuckoo clock hands

Installing the cuckoo clock hands bought from starts with removing the old hands.

Removing the old cuckoo hands

To remove the cuckoo hands will only need a pair of needle nose pliers. While holding the minute hand still (longer of the two hands) while loosening the minute hand nut with the pliers. Turning the hand nut in the counter clockwise direction while holding the hand still, it will loosen up. Now it can be turned with the fingers only and come right off.

The cuckoo minute hand bushing

With the minute hand off it will expose a round bushing that has a square hole in it. This bushing may or may not come off with the minute hand, in fact it maybe stuck in the hand itself. If the bushing is stuck in the hand just remove it by prying up and off with a flat screwdriver. Hour hand is next and is only a friction fit. Twist it and pull at the same time and it will come off.

Install the hour hand

Hour hand is first by a twist and push at the same time, it is only a friction fit. The tube it goes on is tapered although it may not be noticeable. So the more the hour hand is twisted and pushed down at the same time, the tighter it will be on the clock. Do not worry about having it point to the right time yet, we will do that later. Now put the minute hand on (the longer of the two hands). Put this on the bushing and the ridges will somewhat lock it into place in the hole of the hand. Next is the hand nut on the threaded portion of the hand shaft. This will sandwich the minute hand between the bushing and its nut. Now it’s time to set the hands to point to the correct time when the clock cuckoo’s.

Install the minute hand

Next put the brass bushing with the square hole in it, on the clocks hand shaft arbor’s square portion. The flat side of the hand bushing will go toward the clock dial. The side with the ridge on it will point outward.

Setting the cuckoo strike

After the install of the cuckoo clock minute hand we need them to point to the right place. Putting the hands in a position to point to the right place when it cuckoos the hour. Put the clock up on the wall and turn the minute hand to make the clock cuckoo out the top of the hour. Count the number of cuckoo’s the clock sounds out and point the hour hand to that number. For example, if there were 6 cuckoos point the hour hand to the six. The minute hand gets loosened some and turned to the 12 to represent the top of the hour. Tighten the minute hand nut while holding it still at the 12. Now just check the next hour and see if it will point to the correct spots when it cuckoos again.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues

Issues with the strike quantity on a cuckoo clock is a common ailment upon setting up a new movement. The clock will strike 12 o’clock and then 12 again at 1 o’clock or something like this. This has to do with the mechanical components behind the clock dial. Remove the hands and dial to get to that section of the cuckoo movement.

Remove the hands

To remove the cuckoo hands a pair of needle nose pliers are needed. Hold the minute hand still (longer of the two hands) while loosening the minute hand nut. Once the nut is loose, just turn to the left until it is off. Then the minute hand will come off with its round bushing that has a square hole in it. Remove the bushing out of the minute hand when it’s off of the clock. It is only a friction fit, just push it out or pry it out of the hand with a flat screwdriver. Hour hand is only a friction fit so twist it and pull.

Remove the dial

Removing the dial is done after the hands are off. There is anywhere between 2 and 4 small nails holding the cuckoo dial on the clock. Sometimes, on rare occasions, the dial is glued to the clock case. Either way, it is the same method to remove the dial. Take a small flat head screwdriver and lift gently on the dial on one side and then the other until little by little it will come up and off the case.

Component description

Once the dial is off of the clock please notice the saw tooth rack. The rack looks like a saw with sharp teeth and it flops up and down in the front of the movement. It falls down on a snail looking thing that is on the same tube as the hour hand. In other words the smaller of the two hands that points out the hour is also on this same tube as the snail. A rack and snail count system these components determine how many times it will cuckoo each hour.

How it works

There are at least 12 saw looking teeth on the rack, one tooth per hour totaling at least 12. The rack will fall onto the portions of the snail then moves back up one tooth at a time. Each tooth that climbs back up lets the strike train run for that time duration. That time duration of the strike wheels spinning will allow the clock to cuckoo one time. The lowest portion of the snails humps would be 12 strikes for 12 o'clock. This is because the lowest hump on the snail will expose 12 teeth on the rack.

Correcting Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues

If there is any Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues, the issue is in this area. The best thing to do is to make it strike over and over as looking at these components in action. There is usually no parts to buy to fix this and it’s usually just a matter of tweaking something here or there to let the rack fall as it should and when it should. Something to note is that if it strikes ONE and TWELVE ok, then the snail is on correctly and the rest of the hours will automatically be ok. So the goal is to be sure the clock strikes the 12 times ok and then the one o’clock also. This will solve the Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Cuckoo clock door stuck open

Upon installation of a new cuckoo clock movement this is a common issue. The Cuckoo clock door stuck open could be a number of things. Please check the following to see if it solves the issue of the door not closing all the way.

Weights not heavy enough

If the pine cone weight that controls the cuckoo portion of the clock is not heavy enough this can be the issue. Pull down some on the currently used weight and see if the door shuts. If the below issues are checked, and the door only shuts when pulling the weight down, consider adding a heavier weight. It maybe the wrong pine cone weight to begin with.

Needs Oil

The cuckoo clock movement may need oiling at least on the arms that make the bird go in and out of its house. Also, it is good to put a drop of clock oil on the door hinges and the connections for the wire that goes from the bird to the door.

Bending the door wire

Try bending up the wire that goes from the bird to the Cuckoo clock door. If putting an upward hump of a bend in this wire, it will basically be the same as shortening this wire. With a bent or shortened wire, the bird will not come out as far, but also the bird will pull the door shut more when it goes back in the clock case to sleep.

Bird wires bent

The arm that pushes the arm to make the bird come out, may need to get bent inward some. This may be tricky to see or get to, but sometimes there is a small side door on the side of the cuckoo clock case that can open and see this wire, or arm, that pushes the arm that connects to the bird. Other times there is no door on the side of the case and need to do it from the back of the movement by taking the back panel off of the cuckoo case.

Correcting a bent bird wire

When looking at the back of the movement, this arm will be in a horizontal direction on the back right hand side of the clock movement. Right as looking at the back of the movement that is. In some cuckoos this is even trickier to see or adjust as the right hand bellow tube maybe in the way and has to be removed. Locate this horizontal wire that is in the approximate middle of the movement, located on the strike train side, this is the wire that can get bent. This bending in of the wire more into the movement, will in turn make the door come out more. If bent out some toward the case side, will allow the bird to go in more and therefore the door will shut more.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Disconnecting the bellows

The lift wires travel from the movement up to the flaps of the old bellow tops. Furthermore, these wires are taken off in order to remove the cuckoo bellows. Usually this is done by opening the loop on the lower end of the lift wire. This is where it connects to the movement's lift arm. Use a small flat head screwdriver to twist open the loop on the wire.

Removing the cuckoo bellows

Usually, one flat head screw holds the bellow tops in the clock. The screw goes into the bellow tube. This would be on the side of the cuckoo clock case. Subsequently, each side has a bellow tube and therefore each side has a screw. This is providing the bellows do not have adhesive on them. Once the screw is out of the tube, pry it off with a small screwdriver. Generally speaking, use the screwdriver because there is still one small nail holding it in place. It is most certainly small enough so it simply pops off. As always, be careful not to damage the clock case when doing these things.

Installing the cuckoo wires

The first step is to install the eye loop wire into the new bellow tops. In essence, in the same manner as the old ones. Second, drill a small pilot hole into the Cuckoo Clock Bellow Tops. Shove the eye loop into the hole with needle nose pliers. Next work on the bird tail lift wire. Mount the bird tail lift wire the exact same way. It is best to get the cuckoo clock wire assortment with the tops. This way, there will be extra wires in case one breaks or twists.

Removing old cuckoo bellow tops

The old cuckoo bellow tops will just snap off the tubes. The top of the tube will have some old glue stuck which has to be carefully cleaned off with a knife. Just carefully scrape it off until it is smooth. This way it has a nice, flat surface for the new tops to be installed. New epoxy will be needed as well for the installation of the new tops. Clear 5 minute epoxy mixes A with B and is great for this project. The regular epoxy is also fine. Any epoxy that dries fast will do the job. After all, it doesn't have to be anything fancy. With the tops scraped smooth, the epoxy will adhere well. If old epoxy is leftover, the bumps will make the new tops not stick as well.

Installing new cuckoo bellow tops

When the new tops are epoxied, either place them upside down to dry or clamp them. Clamping them is the best, however if you do not have them then turning them upside down is the next option. Most importantly, the bellows have to be able to open without resistance. This means there needs to be a gap between the closed flap of the bellow top and the front of the tube. If this small gap is not there, the bellow will jam on the side of the clock case upon opening. The top needs to be in the exact position as the old one was. As a result, it will be able to blow air into the hole that is in the top of the tube. This is so it will not rub anything.

Long Screw-Drivers Cuckoo-Clock Repair set of 6

Long Screw-Drivers Cuckoo-Clock Repair set of 6 assorted Philips and flat head. These are the best set to remove movements from there clock cases. They reach into the mantle clock cases and cuckoo cases very well. It is not easy to find a perfect length screwdriver with the right size head. These are long enough to go into the hole in the back of the cuckoo case to get the bird out.

Long Screw-Drivers Measurements

The set includes three flat head screwdrivers and three Phillip head screw drivers. 1 each style of the following measurements totaling 6 screwdrivers. 2 at 10 inch (254mm) 2 at 7 inch (178mm) and 2 at 5 inch (127mm). Works very well with the magnetizer demagnetizer tool to make the tips a magnet.

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Clock Repair Small Pliers

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Clock Repair Small Pliers

Small 6pc pliers with various shaped ends for crimping or cutting in clock repair. These pliers are between 5 and 6 inches long overall. Get into tight places when locking in pivots or wire bending. Things like twisting small spring steel or cutting wire these are the best for. It can be used in a variety of ways during a movement repair.

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Clock Pivot Pick Set

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Clock Pivot Pick Set

Four piece set of picks that can be used in clock repair for a variety of uses. There are angles and loops to help get the pivots into the clock plate pivot holes when reassembling a mechanical clock movement.

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Clock Repair Cutting Broaches

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Cutting Broaches

Use Clock repair cutting broaches to ream out a pivot hole to accept a bushing. Ream the hole a bit larger so that a new round bushing can be out in via friction fit. Also use it to increase a bushing hole diameter as well. Comes in two different size sets. Use the smaller set for alarm clocks or large pocket watches. These are very handy for clock repairs.

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Clock Movement Test Stand

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Test Stand

A stand for testing clock movements during clock repair. It is a world of difference having the right tools. This is one of those simple tools that is a necessity to work on clocks. You can test a movement and make adjustments easy and at eye level. So much easier than attempting to do this when it is mounted in the wooden clock case. Works great on mantle or wall clock movements. Durable, practical, adjustable and well made.

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0-25mm Micrometer for Clock Repair

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0-25mm Micrometer for Clock Repair

Accurately read any measurement with this 0-25mm micrometer for clock repair. An essential tool for the anniversary clock or general clock repair. Suspension springs and mainsprings always need the measurement of the thickness of the spring. The only way to accomplish this is to use a micrometer.

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