Clock Weight Top Hook Kit

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Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Clock Weight Hook Kit

Brass top Clock Weight Hook Kit for modern German clock movements such as Hermle / Urgos / Kieninger. The top hooks are made a few ways, external threads or internal threads and also M4 threads or M5 threads. The M* number is the thread size of the screw/bolt, M4 is 4mm, M5 is 5mm. Now available here in a pack of three to cover all clock weight possibilities. Prior to offering this kit we did sell them single, however this is no longer the situation. It was just found to be much easier to sell the three pack we offer here, to be sure the right one will be sent. In this top hook kit there is 1 of the M4 internal threads, 1 of the M5 internal threads, and 1 of M5 external threads. With these three top hooks chances are one of these will fit the top of the clock weight.

Clock Weight Hook Kit Removal and Installation

The weight hooks on a clock are removed by turning the hook to the left with needle nose pliers. The old broken hook will unscrew just like any other screw. When it is removed it can be seen if it has external or internal threads. Installation is reverse of removal.


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Clock Chain End Hooks

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Clock Chain End Hooks

Hook and ring set for chain driven floor clock models. The chain link only consists of a bent wire that loops around to itself. Only needs two needle nose pliers to open the connecting point on the link and install these pieces. One side of the chain gets the hook for the weight, and the other gets the tab so the chain wont flip over into the movement and get jammed.


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Cuckoo Chain Hook Set

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Post WW2 German cuckoo clock repair parts for the professional or hobbyist. Information on how to install these parts onto a cuckoo clock. - Clockworks
Cuckoo PartsCuckoo parts descriptionIf it will not cuckooInstalling the cuckoo handsCuckoo Strike Quantity IssuesCuckoo Door Stuck OpenReplacing Bellow Tops

Please view these information tabs to help with determining the proper parts for your clock.

Cuckoo repair parts

The most common Cuckoo repair parts sold is the bellow tops and the hands. The bellow tubes are usually good to reuse on the clock, just the bellow tops have cloth that rip over time and therefore the clock will not cuckoo the time out.

Repairing cuckoo bellows

If the cloth is ripped the entire cuckoo bellows do not need to be replaced. The bellow tops only can be used. If just replacing the bellow tops it makes things easier to get the correct size for the clock. To get the proper bellow tops measure the length and width of the top only. Snap off the old tops off of the bellow tubes and clean the surface with a knife, then epoxy the new tops on the same way. Then transfer the cuckoo lift rings from the old tops to the new ones and its done.

Cuckoo Clock Repair

Cuckoo Clock Repair

The help section can help with many of the most common issues the clock may have. We also have the cuckoo clock movements for post 1950 German made units. This is about 80 percent of the cuckoos out in the world so chances are we have the movement needed.

If the movement is worn out and is post 1950 its just as well to get the new one instead of restoring the old one. The process of the movement restoration is time consuming and therefore expensive. When the new movement is 100-200 dollars and will last alot longer than the best restoration.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

New cuckoo clock movement not striking

When the new cuckoo clock movement will not go into striking mode for the hours. The bird will not come out and the clock will not indicate what time it is with the cuckoo call. Here are some guidelines on what to check in this situation.

See if the cuckoo door is latched shut

There is a wire above the cuckoo door that locks it into the closed position. This is for either shipping the clock and also for chime shut off. It is a small wire that stops the door and just gets turned to either in the way or out of the way of the door. Be sure it is out of the way so the door can open and it can cuckoo.

Check the silence lever

There may be a silence lever if the cuckoo movement has one. This would be located on the side of the cuckoo clock movement and stick outside of the clock case. Push it down for cuckoo on and up for cuckoo shut off usually. Just move it to the opposite direction and see if the clock will strike out the cuckoo calls. If the movement has a silence switch that does not stick outside of the case it may still be on the movement itself. Just look at the back of the clock with the back panel off and may see the silence switch. See a lever on the right as facing the back of the movement on the top side. Not all cuckoos have this feature as the manufacturer, silence the cuckoo just by locking the bird door.

Clock chain resistance

Be sure nothing is in the way of the chain that drives the striking side of the cuckoo clock. One weight controls the time and the other the strike. If the chain is rubbing anything like the hole in the bottom of the cuckoo case it will be just like not having enough weight to make it run. The chain that holds the weight should be straight from the ratchet wheel and down without rubbing anything. Also the side of the chain that there is no weight attached to cant be caught up on anything also. This is the side that pull to raise the weight on the other side of the chain loop.

Bellow lift wires in the way

On a new cuckoo clock movement install it is required to bend the lift wires so they do not get caught up on each other. During the travel up to lift the bellows they could be hitting each other and creating resistance. These just get bent this way or that way so they can go up and down with the bellow tops. If the bellow tops is broken or ripped it can cause this to happen also.

Bird arm position

The arm that the bird rests on could be bent in a way that it is trying to go forward too much. Therefore it hits the front of the clock case instead of in a position where it just opens the door. The intent is for it to open the cuckoo door only and not hit the front of the clock case. It will only cuckoo if the bird arm is able to be all the way forward with no resistance.

Cuckoo door opening wire

If this wire is too long it will try to open the bird door too much. With the bird door open too much it will not be able to start the cuckoo strike. The solution is to make the door wire shorter or put a bend in it. Putting a bend in this wire so its sort of a hump instead of straight will be the same thing as making it shorter.

Cuckoo Clock Not Striking Conclusion

If the cuckoo will not go into striking mode is caused by resistance. There is only like 4 or 5 gears that have to spin around to make the clock cuckoo. If there is any resistance for this to happen it will not function. These 4 -5 gears need to spin to have the bellows lift and open the cuckoo door at the same time. There is much action that is dictated by these few gears spinning, any resistance in any part will stop it from working.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Installing cuckoo clock hands

Installing the cuckoo clock hands bought from clockworks.com starts with removing the old hands.

Removing the old cuckoo hands

To remove the cuckoo hands will only need a pair of needle nose pliers. While holding the minute hand still (longer of the two hands) while loosening the minute hand nut with the pliers. Turning the hand nut in the counter clockwise direction while holding the hand still, it will loosen up. Now it can be turned with the fingers only and come right off.

The cuckoo minute hand bushing

With the minute hand off it will expose a round bushing that has a square hole in it. This bushing may or may not come off with the minute hand, in fact it maybe stuck in the hand itself. If the bushing is stuck in the hand just remove it by prying up and off with a flat screwdriver. Hour hand is next and is only a friction fit. Twist it and pull at the same time and it will come off.

Install the hour hand

Hour hand is first by a twist and push at the same time, it is only a friction fit. The tube it goes on is tapered although it may not be noticeable. So the more the hour hand is twisted and pushed down at the same time, the tighter it will be on the clock. Do not worry about having it point to the right time yet, we will do that later. Now put the minute hand on (the longer of the two hands). Put this on the bushing and the ridges will somewhat lock it into place in the hole of the hand. Next is the hand nut on the threaded portion of the hand shaft. This will sandwich the minute hand between the bushing and its nut. Now it’s time to set the hands to point to the correct time when the clock cuckoo’s.

Install the minute hand

Next put the brass bushing with the square hole in it, on the clocks hand shaft arbor’s square portion. The flat side of the hand bushing will go toward the clock dial. The side with the ridge on it will point outward.

Setting the cuckoo strike

After the install of the cuckoo clock minute hand we need them to point to the right place. Putting the hands in a position to point to the right place when it cuckoos the hour. Put the clock up on the wall and turn the minute hand to make the clock cuckoo out the top of the hour. Count the number of cuckoo’s the clock sounds out and point the hour hand to that number. For example, if there were 6 cuckoos point the hour hand to the six. The minute hand gets loosened some and turned to the 12 to represent the top of the hour. Tighten the minute hand nut while holding it still at the 12. Now just check the next hour and see if it will point to the correct spots when it cuckoos again.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues

Issues with the strike quantity on a cuckoo clock is a common ailment upon setting up a new movement. The clock will strike 12 o’clock and then 12 again at 1 o’clock or something like this. This has to do with the mechanical components behind the clock dial. Remove the hands and dial to get to that section of the cuckoo movement.

Remove the hands

To remove the cuckoo hands a pair of needle nose pliers are needed. Hold the minute hand still (longer of the two hands) while loosening the minute hand nut. Once the nut is loose, just turn to the left until it is off. Then the minute hand will come off with its round bushing that has a square hole in it. Remove the bushing out of the minute hand when it’s off of the clock. It is only a friction fit, just push it out or pry it out of the hand with a flat screwdriver. Hour hand is only a friction fit so twist it and pull.

Remove the dial

Removing the dial is done after the hands are off. There is anywhere between 2 and 4 small nails holding the cuckoo dial on the clock. Sometimes, on rare occasions, the dial is glued to the clock case. Either way, it is the same method to remove the dial. Take a small flat head screwdriver and lift gently on the dial on one side and then the other until little by little it will come up and off the case.

Component description

Once the dial is off of the clock please notice the saw tooth rack. The rack looks like a saw with sharp teeth and it flops up and down in the front of the movement. It falls down on a snail looking thing that is on the same tube as the hour hand. In other words the smaller of the two hands that points out the hour is also on this same tube as the snail. A rack and snail count system these components determine how many times it will cuckoo each hour.

How it works

There are at least 12 saw looking teeth on the rack, one tooth per hour totaling at least 12. The rack will fall onto the portions of the snail then moves back up one tooth at a time. Each tooth that climbs back up lets the strike train run for that time duration. That time duration of the strike wheels spinning will allow the clock to cuckoo one time. The lowest portion of the snails humps would be 12 strikes for 12 o'clock. This is because the lowest hump on the snail will expose 12 teeth on the rack.

Correcting Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues

If there is any Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues, the issue is in this area. The best thing to do is to make it strike over and over as looking at these components in action. There is usually no parts to buy to fix this and it’s usually just a matter of tweaking something here or there to let the rack fall as it should and when it should. Something to note is that if it strikes ONE and TWELVE ok, then the snail is on correctly and the rest of the hours will automatically be ok. So the goal is to be sure the clock strikes the 12 times ok and then the one o’clock also. This will solve the Cuckoo Strike Quantity Issues.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Cuckoo clock door stuck open

Upon installation of a new cuckoo clock movement this is a common issue. The Cuckoo clock door stuck open could be a number of things. Please check the following to see if it solves the issue of the door not closing all the way.

Weights not heavy enough

If the pine cone weight that controls the cuckoo portion of the clock is not heavy enough this can be the issue. Pull down some on the currently used weight and see if the door shuts. If the below issues are checked, and the door only shuts when pulling the weight down, consider adding a heavier weight. It maybe the wrong pine cone weight to begin with.

Needs Oil

The cuckoo clock movement may need oiling at least on the arms that make the bird go in and out of its house. Also, it is good to put a drop of clock oil on the door hinges and the connections for the wire that goes from the bird to the door.

Bending the door wire

Try bending up the wire that goes from the bird to the Cuckoo clock door. If putting an upward hump of a bend in this wire, it will basically be the same as shortening this wire. With a bent or shortened wire, the bird will not come out as far, but also the bird will pull the door shut more when it goes back in the clock case to sleep.

Bird wires bent

The arm that pushes the arm to make the bird come out, may need to get bent inward some. This may be tricky to see or get to, but sometimes there is a small side door on the side of the cuckoo clock case that can open and see this wire, or arm, that pushes the arm that connects to the bird. Other times there is no door on the side of the case and need to do it from the back of the movement by taking the back panel off of the cuckoo case.

Correcting a bent bird wire

When looking at the back of the movement, this arm will be in a horizontal direction on the back right hand side of the clock movement. Right as looking at the back of the movement that is. In some cuckoos this is even trickier to see or adjust as the right hand bellow tube maybe in the way and has to be removed. Locate this horizontal wire that is in the approximate middle of the movement, located on the strike train side, this is the wire that can get bent. This bending in of the wire more into the movement, will in turn make the door come out more. If bent out some toward the case side, will allow the bird to go in more and therefore the door will shut more.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Disconnecting the bellows

The lift wires travel from the movement up to the flaps of the old bellow tops. Furthermore, these wires are taken off in order to remove the cuckoo bellows. Usually this is done by opening the loop on the lower end of the lift wire. This is where it connects to the movement's lift arm. Use a small flat head screwdriver to twist open the loop on the wire.

Removing the cuckoo bellows

Usually, one flat head screw holds the bellow tops in the clock. The screw goes into the bellow tube. This would be on the side of the cuckoo clock case. Subsequently, each side has a bellow tube and therefore each side has a screw. This is providing the bellows do not have adhesive on them. Once the screw is out of the tube, pry it off with a small screwdriver. Generally speaking, use the screwdriver because there is still one small nail holding it in place. It is most certainly small enough so it simply pops off. As always, be careful not to damage the clock case when doing these things.

Installing the cuckoo wires

The first step is to install the eye loop wire into the new bellow tops. In essence, in the same manner as the old ones. Second, drill a small pilot hole into the Cuckoo Clock Bellow Tops. Shove the eye loop into the hole with needle nose pliers. Next work on the bird tail lift wire. Mount the bird tail lift wire the exact same way. It is best to get the cuckoo clock wire assortment with the tops. This way, there will be extra wires in case one breaks or twists.

Removing old cuckoo bellow tops

The old cuckoo bellow tops will just snap off the tubes. The top of the tube will have some old glue stuck which has to be carefully cleaned off with a knife. Just carefully scrape it off until it is smooth. This way it has a nice, flat surface for the new tops to be installed. New epoxy will be needed as well for the installation of the new tops. Clear 5 minute epoxy mixes A with B and is great for this project. The regular epoxy is also fine. Any epoxy that dries fast will do the job. After all, it doesn't have to be anything fancy. With the tops scraped smooth, the epoxy will adhere well. If old epoxy is leftover, the bumps will make the new tops not stick as well.

Installing new cuckoo bellow tops

When the new tops are epoxied, either place them upside down to dry or clamp them. Clamping them is the best, however if you do not have them then turning them upside down is the next option. Most importantly, the bellows have to be able to open without resistance. This means there needs to be a gap between the closed flap of the bellow top and the front of the tube. If this small gap is not there, the bellow will jam on the side of the clock case upon opening. The top needs to be in the exact position as the old one was. As a result, it will be able to blow air into the hole that is in the top of the tube. This is so it will not rub anything.

Cuckoo Chain Hook Set Installation

Installation of the cuckoo chain hook and ring set is easy. Each link on the chain is only a wire folded into a unsoldered loop only. With two needle nose pliers a simple twist is all that is is needed to open the link. Insert the hook or ring and close the same way. The hook goes on the side of the chain that will go down when pulled on so it can hang the cuckoo weight. The ring will go on the side of the chain that comes down if pulled on.

Cuckoo chain quality check

The first couple of links maybe stretched from constant use, these can be removed and tossed out. Two links out of countless will not effect the duration of time that clock winds down. If the chain is rusted or stretched beyond reason the chains are available as a separate purchase.


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Grandfather Grandmother Clock Chain

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Grandmother Clock Chain

Grandfather grandmother clock chain by movement maker or links per foot LPF. Count the links on the old chain so it matches the LPF on the drop down menu. All Hermle chain driven units take 46.5LPF. Cuckoo clock chains are sold in a different section on Clockworks.

Clock Chain Installation

Clock chain Installation is simple. One end of the chain has a hook and the other end a tab. Loop the chain over the ratchet wheel so the hook end is on the side of the ratchet that will not come down if it is pulled. The weight is supposed to be suspended in the air and not come crashing down when it is hung in other words.


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Polished Clock Weight Cap

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Polished Clock Weight Cap

Polished brass tone weight shell end caps are the tops and bottom of the weight shell. Available in 43mm, 47mm or 60mm diameters and sold individually. If a top or bottom is damaged this is an inexpensive solution than the entire weight or weight shell. The top hook and the bottom nut are threaded so it only has to be turned to the left with needle nose pliers to be removed.


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Grandfather Clock Replacement Cable

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Replacement Cable

Original factory replacement grandfather clock replacement cable for German clock movements. The cables are original and sometimes vary slightly in lengths. They have the ends that lock into the clock movement installed already.


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Mechanical Clock Weight Pulley

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Mechanical Clock Weight Pulley

Solid brass cable pulley for Hermle / Urgos / Kieninger mechanical clock movements. Available in two sizes 1 3/4 inch diameter or 1 1/4 inch diameter. The grandfather and grandmother clock series will take the 1 3/4 wide pulley. Wall clocks of German origin will take the 1 1/4 inch diameter.


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Clock Weight Loop Top-Hook

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Clock Weight Hook

Brass top weight hook for modern German clock movements such as Hermle / Urgos / Kieninger. This top hook is for chain driven grand mother or grand father clock movements. The hook of the chain will go into the loop of the top hook to hang the weight. This clock weight top hook has an internal M4 (4mm) thread to mount it with.

Weight Hook Measuring

It is required to have a digital caliper or similar to measure the thread size. If the threads are 4 mm it is known as M4.

Removal and Installation

The weight hooks on a clock are removed by turning the hook to the left with needle nose pliers. The old broken hook will unscrew just like any other screw. When it is removed it can be seen if it has external or internal threads. Installation is reverse of removal.


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Mechanical Clock Replacement Cable

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Mechanical Clock Replacement Cable

Mechanical clock cable for cable driven clock movements. This cable must be knotted on the ends as they do not have installed fittings. The clock cable is .040' (1.0mm) thick and the length is whatever is selected on the option menu. This thickness is the most common thickness required for a post 1950 cable driven floor clock.

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Tall Case Clock Pulley

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Tall Case Clock Pulley

Tall case clock pulley for antique floor clocks. This part is what the clock weight will hang onto in the waist of the clock. It is 1 3/4 inches wide and is made of brass. Has a steel S hook that can be used or not used depending on the need.

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Round-Edge 60mm Weight Cap

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Round-Edge 60mm Weight Cap

Polished brass tone weight shell end caps are the tops and bottom of the weight shell. Available in 60mm diameter and sold individually. If a top or bottom is damaged this is an inexpensive solution than the entire weight or weight shell. The top hook and the bottom nut are threaded so it only has to be turned to the left with needle nose pliers to be removed.


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Hook Clock Weight Pulley

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Hook Clock Weight Pulley

Solid brass cable pulley for Urgos / Kieninger mechanical clock movements. This brass pulley is 1 7/8 inches wide and has a hook for the weight to hang.


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Kieninger RWS Clock Pulley

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Kieninger RWS Clock Pulley

Clock weight pulley for Kieninger RWS series movements. This holds the type of weight that is split into two weights on one time train. The RWS series weight specification calls for 9.9lbs on the time train and on this movement this weight is split into two. The wheel is 1 3/4 inch wide, the entire pulley with the yoke is 3 inches wide.


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Grandfather Clock Weight Pulley

Posted on    Posted in  turned_in_not  
Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weight Pulley

Solid brass grandfather clock weight cable pulley for Hermle / Urgos / Kieninger mechanical clock movements.


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Brass Clock Cable Pulley

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Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights offered in a variety of ways. Get any part of the weight or the weight complete for your clock, using the weight chart
Clock WeightsWeights DescriptionWeights stuck highHermle Weight SpecsUrgos Weight SpecsKieninger Weight SpecsChanging a Cable
Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Grandfather Clock Weights

Grandfather Clock Weights Description

The Grandfather Clock Weights Description on this web page will cover what is meant by weights and their parts. Any part of the weight is available on its own. We also offer complete weights. If needing a complete clock weight, we need to determine what the appropriate weight is for the clock. This requires getting the information off of the back plate of the brass movement itself. This information will not be on any of the paperwork or clock case. Once the movement number is known, cross reference that with the weight chart. The other piece of information that is needed is the diameter of the bob. The bob is the round disk at the bottom of the pendulum.

The weight chart

Before using the chart, it is needed to know who made the clock movement. This can be deceiving because the movement can have any name on it, but it may not be the true maker. For example, a Hermle unit may have the name Sligh, Ridgeway, Howard Miller and so on. The numbers on the movement is what will lead to getting the correct manufacturer of the movement not the names on the movement. The stamp with these numbers are right on the back plate. Use the movement identification page to find out who made it. Once the manufacturer is known and the starting numbers of the movement, use the chart to see the weight specifications for the Grandfather clock weights.

Avoiding the weight chart

There is also another way to go about this task, which may be easier. If the movement was made in Germany, post WW2, we can safely make the following assumptions. If the movement is square and chain driven, it will require [email protected] lbs and [email protected] lbs. These are available in either 47mm or 43mm diameters.

If the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or more, change that rule to [email protected] lbs and [email protected] in 47mm or 43mm. A movement that is rectangle in either chain or cable will use [email protected] and [email protected] LBS in 60mm diameter. This changes to [email protected] and [email protected] in 60mm diameter if the pendulum bob is 8 1/2 inches or wider. These specifications do not apply if the clock has 5 or 9 big tubes on the back. Also this rule is not for all Grandfather clock weights but the vast majority of the post WW2 German units.

Close enough is good enough

The weight specs list it as 4.7 or 6.6, however this is really being too picky. If getting it close to those numbers that is fine. In fact if ordering a 4.7 lb weight, it may come 5.3 or whatever, but that is just fine. There has to be some sort of reference for the factory to label the Grandfather clock weights so it is what it is. Just know if it is a pound over that is fine. If it's a little under, that is fine also. They do not have to be exact.

Often wrong from the start

In fact, there is a lot of clocks in the world sold new with the wrong Clock Weights on them from the start. Clockworks will do a repair and they will say the clock ran for 30 years straight and come to find out they had Grandfather clock weights that were a pound or two too heavy. If the weights are a little too heavy it is fine. A lighter weight may or may not be fine because it may not trigger the movement to work as designed.

Grandfather Clock Weights Description - Conclusion

Grandfather clock Weights are not cheap mainly because they are so heavy to keep, ship, store, move from here to there. Sure one weight set of three is less than 30 lbs but that adds up quickly in a stack of weight sets. With that said, we don't want to ship these back and forth. It is best to get the right weights the first time. To return these is not an inexpensive or easy task. For example, suppose we charge $30 to ship these. They are wrong for some reason it's now $40 to get it back and another $30 to reship. UPS charges a fee to send a call tag for them to come back. That is $110 to UPS for no reason. So if there are questions, please ask.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Grandfather Clock Weights Stuck

The Grandfather clock weights can get stuck in the high position if over wound. Some larger clocks have over wind protection to prevent this. The grandmother and grandfather chain drive units often do not have this feature. When winding the weights up make sure the top of the weight can be seen when done. Never go to the point where the top of the shiny weight cover cant be seen.

Chime weight stuck

The chime weight is on the right as you face the clock and has the heaviest weight. Using cloth gloves, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some. This is the same as making the weight weigh more. At the same time, turn the minute hand past the quarter hour to see if it will engage the chime. When you advance the time and make it chime, the weight will slowly come down. This will hopefully be enough to activate and run the chime on its own.

Time weight stuck

The time weight is the center weight which can be light or heavy depending on bob size. This is the hardest weight to deal with out of the three. Try pulling down some while swinging the pendulum. See if it starts running on its own when letting go. If this does not work, take off the pendulum. All it will have is the pendulum leader hanging on the back of the movement.

This will make it tick tock faster than if the pendulum was on. The leader will tick tock faster as you pull down some on the weight. The weight will then come down enough to run the clock. If all else fails, and it’s a chain driven clock, you would need to cut the chain in half, or break a link, to take the movement out of the clock. With the movement out of the clock it can be fixed.

Strike weight stuck

The strike weight is on the left as you face the clock and has the lightest weight. Only after the chime weight is operating correctly can you work on the strike weight. If the clock does not run through the chime sequence it will not get to where it strikes out the hours. With some cloth gloves on, or at least a cloth of some kind, pull down on the weight some.

Again, this is the same as making the weight weigh more. Doing this will make the clock strike. Advance the minute hand and let it chime each quarter until it plays the top of the hour song. Then pull a little on the weight when it’s supposed to strike out the hours. Keep advancing the time with the minute hand, as to make it chime and strike. Then slowly the weight will come down enough to be able to activate and run the strike on its own.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020
Hermle clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Urgos clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)
Kieninger clock weight specifications If the pendulum bob is 8.5, or larger, the time weight should be the same as the chime weight instead. (Tubular Bell movements are an exception)

Changing a Clock Cable

Changing a clock cable requires the movement to be removed from the clock case. These instructions refer to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin, however all makes have a similar method. Swapping the cable is easy. There is a big hole and a little hole on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, then slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, it seats in securely. It's the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, meaning, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.

The cable drum side of the cable

To remove, lift the cable up from the oblong hole on the drum and slide it over to the big side. The cables have ends made of brass attached to them. These get slide over from the small side of the slot on the cable drum to the larger slot. It will then be released and removed from the clock movement.

The other end of the cable

The movement itself would normally have the plates attached for the cable ends. The cables have round brass ends on them and these lock into a plate on the movement. This plate will have a small hole leading to a big hole. To remove the cable it requires only lifting the end and moving over to the big hole and out.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Brass Clock Cable Pulley

Brass Clock Cable Pulley for antique floor clocks. The cable will loop through the 1 3/4" wheel and the top of the weight hooks onto the bar of the pulley.


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