Mechanical Clock Chimeblock and Rods

Chimeblock and RodsWhy the entire chimeblockOrdering the chimeblockChime Hammer Adjustment

Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Clock Chimeblock and Rods

Clock chime block and rods note

Clock chime block and rods - Why we only offer the complete chime block is because often the rods are pressed into the block by machines and is difficult or next to impossible to get a single rod out or replace it.

Other times they are screwed in but again this is done by a machine and is very difficult to remove. Also there are various threads on the rods that are the replacements, it is a tricky thing to get the correct thread size for the individual chime rod and have it fit perfect. Very often the chime rod ordered is returned and swapped out a few times and then just giving up on the individual chime rod and going with the complete chime block with the rods anyway.

So with all this we do not sell the individual rods that go into the block, but rather the entire block and rods together as one unit.

A thing to note about the sound of the clock. Sometimes people as how to get the clock louder or softer in volume, and this is not able to be done on a mechanical clock by means of altering the rods or hammers on the clock. The only thing that can make the clock louder or quieter is to move the clock case to a different location or set it on some other material in some way. So if the clock is on a hard wood surface, it will be louder. If its on a rug, it will be quieter. It has nothing to do with the chime block itself.

- - The content of this web page and web site was written and copyright by James Stoudenmire of Clockworks.com - It may not be used commercially without permission. - -

Get the right clock chime block

To get the right clock chime block, the first step is to determine what style chime block is needed. This is where the hammers are located on the clock movement itself.

There are either side, bottom and back strike style clock movements. Chime block style A is for the bottom strike units, and also can be used on the side strike units as well.

The style B is for the side strike units or in some situations the back strike diagonal style Westminster units.

The style C chime block is for floor clock models (and in rare occasions wall clock styles) with two rows of hammers on the back of the clock movement.

With the style clock chime block decided the next step is to count how many rods are needed, and the length off the longest rod measuring through the chime block. Find this information on the corresponding drop down list for the style chime block needed.

If the clock does not sound good, it may not mean you need a new chime block. It could just be a matter of adjusting the hammers to the rods in a better way. This is just done with your fingers bending the wires on the clock that the hammer heads are on. The hammer heads are on wires as they are meant to bent into final position with your fingers. The hammer head should be about 1/8 inch from the rod it is to strike, when at rest. Just bend one at a time and lift and drop to see if you have a nice crisp tone, and do this down the line for each hammer. In the end it will play the song perfect.

- - The content of this web page and web site was written and copyright by James Stoudenmire of Clockworks.com - It may not be used commercially without permission. - -

Mechanical Clock Chime Hammer Positioning

Mechanical Clock Chime Hammer Positioning is easy to do, and only involves bending the hammer heads wires. This was done when the clock maker who created the case and installed the clock movement from the start also. So if your replacing your clock movement and notice the new one is not lining up, well this is what the original clock maker dealt with in the beginning also. The movement must be married to the clock case by doing this, and this is why the hammer heads are on such bendable wires. It is the intent and requirement for these to be bent into position, it is not uncommon to bend them an inch this way or that way.

The movements hammers are meant to be bent into final position. It should be positioned so the tops of the hammer heads are about 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch down from the chime block itself, and the heads should rest about 1/8 inch away from the rod it will strike. You bend the hammer wires as to make the head about 1/8 away from the chime rod. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double hit. Down the line, do one hammer at a time, until you can lift it with your finger and drop it to a crisp sound note. If you just do each hammer head so it sounds good down the line, you will have a nice song at the very end.

- - The content of this web page and web site was written and copyright by James Stoudenmire of Clockworks.com - It may not be used commercially without permission. - -

Style A = Bottom Strike Chime Block

Clock Chime Rods
Clear
GO1A: $49.89$69.89

Style B = Side Strike Chime Block

Clock Chime Rods
Clear
GO1B: $49.89$79.89

Style C = Back Strike Straight

Clock Chime Rods
Clear
StyleCstr8: $80.00$90.00

Style C = Back Strike V-shape

Clock Chime Rods
Clear
GO1C: $59.89$119.89
<
Clock Chime Rods Antique Gong 4"Some surface rust No returns 4" diameter gong with a back mounting block. This is a wall regulator style gong that is new old stock.
GO40: $29.89
Clock Chime Rods Coil Gong4 3/4 diameter with a brass end with the mounting base for a back mount coil gong strike movement such as a wall clock.
GO4: $14.89
Clock Chime Rods Flat Coil Gong2 3/4 diameter with a brass end and includes the mounting base. This style is good for the mantle style projects.
GO5: $14.89
Clock Parts Chimeblock Mounts Chimeblock MountsThese are the chimeblock mounts and washers to mount the chimeblock to the clock case. The chimeblock has threaded holes usually and these screws go through the case and into the chimeblock.
CBMOUNT: $14.89